Petrol prices + Pending politics = Protest or Peace?

I've been spending the week in New York but keeping up on Haitian news thanks to Google. Haiti has been without a prime minister since the previous PM was ceremoniously sacked after the April food price protests. Since then, two presidential nominees have been rejected by the senate. The third nominee is a woman with a background in education reform. I haven't had enough political discussions in recent days to know what the general impression is of her. It's hard to imagine who would be willing to take up the position in this particularly challenging season - likely a patriot or a power seeker (or a bit of both). Yesterday, the Haitian government haulted price subsidies put into effect after the April food protests and gas prices went up to $6.14 per gallon. Will be interesting to see what the mood is on Monday when I return to Port-au-Prince.

And then there were 3

We enrolled the first 3 kids into our study/project today! It was so exciting to listen to my team members as they explained our project to the two moms we met this morning (one had twins). I feel like sooner than later I am going to enter the phase of the project when I will get to "sit back" and just learn from the fantastic women who are working with me. Seriously, they are amazing.

We are hoping to enroll 5 more moms over the next week and then distribute the first round of manba to them on the 2nd and 3rd of July. We are going to follow these first 8 moms closely for a week or two and then pick-up the enrollment pace to ensure that all eligible mother/babies have the chance to participate. I'm not leaving here until we've followed 82 very cute and hopefully healthier babies through to their first birthdays!!

What's red and white and seen all over Haiti?

My colleague recently shared an interesting article from a Canadian business magazine that profiles the struggles of several local and international businesses operating in Haiti. Check it out here. It was written by a Canadian journalist who made a brief visit to Port-au-Prince in February 2008. I’m really looking forward to discussing it with my Haitian neighbor who is a commercial banker at a local branch of a large Canada-HQ bank.

While micro-credit and other community development initiatives can be effective in lifting individual people from some of the immediate consequences of poverty (e.g. not being able to pay their children' school fees), they cannot restore a dysfunctional economy or significantly lower Haiti's 80% unemployment rate. Healthy private and public industries are essential for more wide-reaching structural economic change.

With its hardworking low-cost labor and proximity to the United States, Haiti should have a comparative advantage in today's global economy. (Note:It's hard to ignore the ethical catch-22 of promoting low-wage labor as an advantage when it’s actually a function of the generalized poverty and powerlessness of people to demand fair wages.) Instead, the storm clouds of insecurity (both real and perceived), political instability and corruption overshadow the many good things Haiti has to offer. Few local or global investors are willing to set up shop in Haiti with the unfortunate exception of drug dealers needing a staging point when smuggling goods to North American consumers.

The article briefly mentions one of the most visible foreign investments in Haiti in recent years – the 2006 entry of the Irish-owned cellular telecommunications giant Digicel into the Haitian market. Prior to entering Haiti, Digicel already operated in Jamaica and 11 other Caribbean countries. While I am not an MBA and have no idea what their balance sheet looks like, to the casual observer Digicel's marketing tactics ingeniously anticipate and respond to local realities.

Digicel entered the market offering cellular handsets for as little as US$ 7-10 and sells phone cards in small enough denominations that even poor people can buy them on a fairly regular basis. They are in constant communication with their clients. At least once a day I get a Kreyol text message from the company telling me about special bonus minutes they are adding to my account or highlighting a recent promotion.

Everywhere you look in Port-au-Prince you see Digicel's signature red and white branding. Their high-quality billboards and television ads feature cultural references in Kreyol. (In contrast to the poorly-produced French-language ads of many other Haitian businesses). There are charging stations outside Digicel stores where people who lack electricity can recharge their phone battery for free. Digicel umbrellas shade street vendors from the mid-day Caribbean sun and all around town you see women wearing the free Digicel tank tops distributed during Karnaval this year. (I was actually kind of disappointed not to get one myself– they're cute). Digicel sponsorship has brought back the national soccer team, prompted the search for the next "Digicel Star", decorated the Karnaval floats of popular local bands and paid for new street signs in Peitonville's commercial district. In line with more traditional corporate responsibility, the company has a Digicel Foundation sponsoring rehab of schools and other community projects across Haiti.

The response of the population seems to be the stuff of captialist legend. In a matter of 12 months, more than 1.4 million customers signed on with Digicel. (Haiti’s entire population is about 8.5 million and two other cellular providers had been operating for several years without half as many clients). It is now socially acceptable to call people at 3 or 4 am in order to take advantage of the bonus evening and early morning minutes Digicel offers. There are stories from the April riots of people stopping fellow rioters from throwing rocks at Digicel stores out of respect for the company. Almost every non-profit I know wants to partner with Digicel to capitalize on their visibility and communications network. I’ve even heard a few folks say that people will now buy phone cards before food.

Digicel’s success in Haiti is not so unique in the global arena of telecommunications – it’s partly a function of the “base of the pyramid”-appropriate nature of the cellular services. Unlike in the United States, where many of us prefer email as our primary business and personal communication tool and where I still know a few principled “no cell-phone” hold outs (love you SEM!), here in Haiti anyone who can find any way to get a mobile phone will do so.

Voice communication is essential for survival in a relationship-centered culture with high rates of illiteracy and an incredibly extended (but still connected) diaspora. Cell towers and handsets are relatively inexpensive technologies that can quickly reach locations where lack of infrastructure, geographical isolation or local bureaucracy have made it impossible to get a land line. The entirely “pay as you go” system allows people to purchase small amounts of phone credit as money becomes available.

It’s hard to say what other goods and services hold such incredible “base of the pyramid” market potential as cell phones. You can bet that almost every one of the Fortune 500 corporations has a high-profile Harvard-trained consultant (or two or ten) trying to figure that out.

While I mourn widespread consumerism and commercialism in my home country – and hold particular disdain for my US cell phone provider’s tactics to nickel and dime me and force me listen to long stretches of muzak while on extended hold with customer service - I actually smile most every time I pass another red-and-white monument to global corporate dominance here in Haiti. It's not that I think Digicel is a humanitarian agency in disguise or somehow incapable of ever wrongly taking advantage of its employees or clients. Rather, so far at least, their being in Haiti seems to be a good thing for Haitian people...and will hopefully promote other local and international firms to also make "good for Haiti" investments.

Breakfast at the black market

According to several newspaper reports the Dominican Republic has increased security presence at the Haiti - Dominican border. What is the motive? Curbing illegal immigration? Stopping drug runners? Actually it's about slowing the flow of subsidized rice, eggs and poultry out of the DR and into food insecure Haiti.

Same story half a world away

In late April, the Washington Post featured this story on food shortages in Mauritania - a country that like Haiti has become totally dependent on imports to meet their population's dietary needs. It provides some good background on why the global food trade does not match the hopeful expectations of free trade advocates who say it is possible to benefit everyone through an open global market. In response to the global food price increases, many net food exporting countries are raising export tariffs in order to make sure food is available at home while better-off food importing countries are buying up and hoarding what is available on the global market to ensure their local supply. This leaves the most poor and vulnerable net food-importing countries (e.g. Haiti) paying even more to import the food commodities it needs - if they can find them on the global market at all.

Guilty pleasure 1.0

Can't help but share this link to "Cassette from my Ex" - a website celebrating the lost art from the 80s and 90s of making mixed tapes to express our deepest feelings for others. The site includes the story behind each person's tape, the cover "art", and song lists complete with mp3. Too fun!

When I moved from Baltimore to Ithaca in 2005, I finally threw out the last few mixed tapes from my high school and college days (along with the long notes that accompanied them). There are still a few songs - Waiting in Vain by Bob Marley, Wildflowers by Tom Petty, and Get out the Map by the Indigo Girls - that trigger fond memories of mixed tape-making friends every time I hear them. What are your favorite mixed tape memories?

On the flip side

I've gotta follow up my last post with something a little more positive. Yesterday, I finally got to a Haitian beach for the first time since 2006! I didn't have my camera with me but here are two photos from almost exactly the same spot two years ago. The waters were quieter and the skies were a little bluer yesterday. It was lovely....and needed.

Back to the streets for some....back inside for me

The clinic was closed yesterday due to demonstrations for the first time since the "food riots" in April. This time, though, it was for a planned peaceful march to protest against the high rates of kidnapping for ransom that have been plaguing Port-au-Prince for the last several years. I unfortunately wasn't able to attend but there is a brief blurb with photos here

I've purposefully avoided talking about the kidnapping issue until now. It's a hard thing to put in context when you are living here much less when you've never experienced Haiti. 99.9% of Haitians are wonderful people who are equally afraid of the 0.1% of people who are carrying out these acts. But in an environment of structural poverty where police and the justice systems are so weak, the 0.1% have a disproportionate amount of power. I don't want to unnecessarily worry you as I generally haven't been worried about it. Kidnappings are highly calculated economic exchanges here. Since no one knows me - no one knows who to ask for money - and so I'm generally not at risk.

The rules seem to have changed a little in the last few weeks though - and the kidnappings got a little closer to home for me and many others. About three weeks ago, the brother-in-law of the clinic's director was shot and killed in an attempted carjacking/kidnapping just outside the gate to his house. A week and a half ago, a Canadian graduate student who had just been in the country for several weeks to do research was kidnapped. She was released unharmed after 10 days of negotiations. In the last two weeks two teenagers have been kidnapped from schools during the day. In one case, even though the family paid $40,000 in ransom, the child was brutally tortured and killed. This is the event that moved people to march.

It's hard to articulate what it is like to live in an environment like Port-au-Prince in this season. While I haven't felt at risk of being kidnapped, I've definitely felt the impact of this generalized sense of insecurity. It's incredibly difficult to figure out how to live here as a single foreign female over a longer term. I have lost all of my independence - out of respect for those who are hosting me here I can't walk down the street alone, I can't drive alone, I don't live alone - I basically don't do anything alone except sit in my bedroom (which I've spent a disproportionate amount of time doing in recent weeks). Having a community of people is essential to one's sanity but developing a consistent accessible, like-minded community has been a real challenge.

I've met many wonderful people over the last few months - Haitian and foreigners alike. There has been a series of good people to share Cornell housing with me - but most of them are here for only short periods of time. Most of the people I've gotten closer to do not have access to cars or they live in places far outside Port-au-Prince. The place where we live is lovely and safe - but it's about a 15-20 minute drive from the areas of town where there are restaurants and shops and where most people I've met live. For my first 6 months here I had pretty consistent access to a vehicle but in recent months have had almost no access. I've spent 2-3 days on end not leaving the small neighborhood were we live. Despite the lovely green trees, the pool, and the 24-hour electricity, it's hard sometimes to not think of it as a prison yard.

There is something that happens to a person when she lives in an environment like this for awhile - I've seen it in myself. When you have no one that you are responsible for or really anyone who feels responsible for you, it's incredibly hard not to start looking inward more than outward. It's hard to remember who you are back in your community. It's hard to think about the fact that others need you as much as you need others.

Each foreigner I've met has different strategies to cope. Mine is to spend way too much time doing things like mindlessly surfing the net and writing rambling blog entries like this one. With so much alone time I should be really productive but as an extrovert, I find it very hard to be energized to focus on work without quality time with people. Drinking a lot more than usual seems to be another common coping strategy. Romantic relationships are not so easy to come by - but most of those who find them tend to very quickly focus most all their energy there (which some would say is true in any context). At least one or two of my fellow blan (foreigner) friends actually seem quite comfortable with their day-to-day life in Haiti...but they are not single females.

It takes so much planning here just to get from point A to point B that at any one time, people don't seem capable of holding on to too many relationships that come with expectations. Yet when your community is so small, it's a struggle not to have fairly high expectations for the few relationships you have. One small change basically resets the entire system - and this is a place of constant change.

Who will sponsor your child?

Since reading an issue at the home of a Canadian Mennonite volunteer here in Port-au-Prince, Geez magazine is quickly becoming a favorite source for understanding how to live out Christian faith in a very real world. Check out the child sponsorship opportunities through their "Make Affluence History" campaign. Even living in Haiti, I need to be challenged to re-think the material abundance I have. Those who have seen my closet know I can shop with the best of them... but little changes, the kind that make you stop and think before you act, can have a big impact.